The Modern Tailor Outfitter and Clothier - Vol. I. A. S. Bridgland 9781445505633 Books
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Originally published in 1928 in three volumes. These deal with every aspect of the tailoring and clothing trade. Extremely well illustrated with photographs and many helpful diagrams and detailed instructions for the design and construction of various garments. The contents of Volume 1 include Tailoring as a Vocation - Gentlemen's Garment Cutting - Trouser Cutting - Vest Cutting - Measures and Measuring - Coat Cutting - Over Garments - Cutting for Corpulent Figures - Trying On - Manipulation - Anatomy for Tailors - Measuring for Ladies Garments - Skirt Cutting - Coat Cutting - Breeches Cutting - Colour and Clothes - Juvenile Garments - Alterations - Collar Cutting - Catering for American Clients - West End Models - Draft of West End Morning Coat - Scales of Measurements etc. Many of the earliest books on fashion and clothing , particularly those dating back to the 1900s and before, are now extremely scarce and increasingly expensive. Home Farm Books are republishing many of these classic works in affordable, high quality, modern editions, using the original text and artwork.
The Modern Tailor Outfitter and Clothier - Vol. I. A. S. Bridgland 9781445505633 Books
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Tags : The Modern Tailor Outfitter and Clothier - Vol. I. [A. S. Bridgland] on Amazon.com. *FREE* shipping on qualifying offers. Originally published in 1928 in three volumes. These deal with every aspect of the tailoring and clothing trade. Extremely well illustrated with photographs and many helpful diagrams and detailed instructions for the design and construction of various garments. The contents of Volume 1 include: Tailoring as a Vocation - Gentlemen's Garment Cutting - Trouser Cutting - Vest Cutting - Measures and Measuring - Coat Cutting - Over Garments - Cutting for Corpulent Figures - Trying On - Manipulation - Anatomy for Tailors - Measuring for Ladies Garments - Skirt Cutting - Coat Cutting - Breeches Cutting - Colour and Clothes - Juvenile Garments - Alterations - Collar Cutting - Catering for American Clients - West End Models - Draft of West End Morning Coat - Scales of Measurements etc. Many of the earliest books on fashion and clothing,A. S. Bridgland,The Modern Tailor Outfitter and Clothier - Vol. I.,Obscure Press,1445505630,Crafts & Hobbies Fashion,Crafts Hobbies,Fashion,Handicrafts, decorative arts & crafts
The Modern Tailor Outfitter and Clothier - Vol. I. A. S. Bridgland 9781445505633 Books Reviews
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A lot of outdated terms but it's really good for drafting patterns but you should get all 3 it's a great investment
This is a good, workable book of patterns from the early 20th century. I haven't tested them out, however they look to be very good. Perhaps the more valuable part of the book is the sections on how to adjust for a multitude of body shapes, and dealing with other fitting issues.
There is no more comprehensive tailoring book in print today. The book tells how to measure an individual and draw full sized patterns to fit any particular individual.The patterns are traditional tailors patterns, very different from ladies dress making patterns. The patterns include a quarter inch seam. This is because the normal presser foot on a sewing machine that holds down the fabric is one half inch wide. The patterns will be drawn full size on brown wrapping paper and the paper pattern cut out. The tailor would trace the outline of the pattern with tailor's chalk on the upper layer of two layers of cloth. The two layers are for the right and left sides of the garment. The two layers of cloth will be cut outside the chalk line if more than a quarter inch seam allowance is wanted. A tailor tack presser foot will be put on the sewing machine and with a zigzag stitch and contrasting thread a seam of loose stitches will be sewn on top of the chalk line, thus marking the pattern on both layers of cloth. He would pull the two layers apart using a thread cutter to snip the threads. Then a normal presser foot will be put on the sewing machine to sew different pieces together. The pattern marking stitches would run along the edge of the normal presser foot and the seam would be a quarter inch from that. After the garment is sewn the marking stitches will be pulled out. The patterns include suits, coats, tuxedos, tail suits, riding pants, old fashioned golfing pants called plus fours. Some ladies patterns and childrens patterns are included. Volume 2 has a glossary of tailoring terms and more patterns. Volume 3 has "correct dress for the occasion", a fancy old fashioned coat worn only at royal affairs, and sewing instructions for a business suit.
This is volume 1 of 3. The paperback is more durable than the hardback.
This is the book that changed my life. Literally. Before I xeroxed a copy of a copy of this 3 part series, I was fumbling miserably, but still determined to crack the nut that is pattern drafting for men's tailored garments. Of the 3 part series, this is essential. The other 2 volumes ramble on about how to set up your workroom, do your accounting, etc. Dull Reading.
The Drafts are excellent. Easy to follow if you are familiar with drafting formulas for men's tailored garments. Most importantly, they work. They fit the shoulder, neckline, armhole, balance, etc are all correct. In addition there is a section on fitting problems. Why they are happening and how to to solve them. This is the section which really opened a door for me. Too many books pass through fitting too quickly, without answering the issues that can bring one to tears. Now one can learn the reason for the excess fold of fabric at the back of the armscye is caused by taking in too much at the side seam. It is solved by taking more out at the center back, and on and on.
I've been making men's tailored garments for 30 years, and cutting and fitting them for over 20. I consider this book essential to anyone interested in men's tailoring; modern or costume. I just purchased this book and set my beat up xerox aside.
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